There are special milestones in life that will always touch your heart and soul. It might be a wedding day, the birth of a child, the birth of a grand child, the Maple Leafs winning the Stanley Cup (wait…. we know that will never happen). For Bernadette and I, the picturesque 1,700 km (just over 1,000 miles) drive around Quebec’s Gaspe Peninsula proved to be another of our treasured milestones.
The Gaspe (La Gaspesie) is filled with history and is often referred to as the birthplace of Canada. Legendary explorer Jacques Cartier was one of the first to sail into its waters with records that date back to 1534. He was initially tasked with finding a new route to Asia, but instead came across Gaspe’s rugged coast. Talk about taking a slow boat to China.
Others followed including Samuel de Champlain, the founder of Quebec City, among other famous poutine spots, who also played a hugely important role in the development of the Gaspe by establishing trade relationships with the indigenous peoples already inhabiting the area. Throughout the Gaspe there are countless examples of the cultures of early French, English, Irish and Scottish settlers intertwined with the original indigenous cultures.
Apart from its rich history, the drive around the peninsula is among the most scenic in Canada. The region is home to lush forests, rolling hills and dramatic cliffs that overlook miles of deep blue ocean in each direction. You will experience the endless beauty of the Gaspe through the eyes of those early explorers as you discover charming and colourful villages, spectacular parks and some of the most incredible cuisine you will ever taste.
While there are so many special spots along the Gaspe route, we were in awe as we rounded a hill top to see the breathtaking view of the town of Perce below with the famous Perce Rock standing far out into the waters of the bay. Locals will tell you that Perce Rock resembles a horse standing with its head in the water taking a drink. If you place your hand over the rock standing on the right, you can see it too.
Another famous feature in Perce is the forest filled Parc national de I’le-Bonaventure standing just beside Perce Rock. The only way to get to Bonaventure Island is by taking a boat tour which landed us ther with instructions to make sure to be back by 5:00 p.m. to catch the last returning boat.
So, we tightened our hiking shoes and followed the 7 km trail that would lead us to a colony like none other. Not only is Bonaventure Island known for its rich natural, historic and geological features, it is also home to the famous Northern Gannet colony. I have to admit, I had never heard of a Northern Gannet until Bernadette told me to lace up my hiking shoes and start walking.
Here’s what I discovered. Northern Gannets are large seabirds with long pointed bills, with white, cream-touched heads and black wing tips. Though they spend most of their life at sea diving torpedolike to catch fish, they will gather in enormous colonies to nest on cliffs throughout the North Atlantic. And here on Bonaventure Island, it is estimated that over 150,000 of these Northern Gannets set up shop each year to nest. While most people will only experience these spectacular birds from a distance, this is by far the most accessible spot to witness Northern Gannets up close. It is hard to describe the experience of seeing so many of these incredible birds. The sheer volume of the birds is beautiful, but at the same time, the sheer volume of noise is nightmarish. With every Gannet seemingly cawing at the same time, it is a miracle they can get a word in edge wise. Just like those cawing around the table at our family dinners.
The hike back to the boat seemed to never end, but eventually Bernadette and I arrived at the wharf with about half an hour to spare before the last pickup. We walked into a building to discover a very cool restaurant that had an impressive menu, but most importantly, very tall, ice cold bottles of a local beer. A nice way to end our hike and visit to this special island.
There are so many stories we have of our milestone visit to the Gaspe. It was special and we loved every minute. The views, the hikes, the food, the people.
I just can’t get those damn Gannet caws out of my head.