After hours of navigating through heavy rain, white-knuckle winds and the occasional fog filled-valley, we successfully arrived with Ladybug at the Baddeck Cabot Trail RV Campground. Another perfect day for being on the road.
The weather seems to change every ten minutes or so in Cape Breton, so our first night, we tumbled off to sleep listening to the wind and rain tapping on Ladybug. By the next morning, the weather had turned in our favour as we awoke to beautiful sunshine and blue skies. Bernadette and I high-fived each other as we set out to explore one of the most scenic drives in Canada.
The Cabot Trail has been on Bernadette’s and my bucket list for many years. It is widely known for its stunning scenery and breathtaking coastal views. While it’s possible to complete the 300 kilometer (188 miles) drive in approximately five hours, the many incredible lookoffs, hiking trails and other fun stops are highlights you won’t want to miss.
Before launching our adventure, we first had to decide which direction to go. Since the Cabot Trail is a loop route, you can either drive clockwise or counter clockwise. They are both scenic and stunning, the only difference being that some people feel more comfortable travelling clockwise so they are in the inside lane, while driving counter clockwise will put you on the cliff side, closer to the steep edges of the trail. Of course, my dare devil navigator instructed me to go counter clockwise.
No matter which direction you choose, the Cabot Trail is filled with beautiful spots to pull over to take in the amazing views that sprawl for miles out into the ocean. On one of our stops, Bernadette decided to traverse the rocky shoreline to dip her toes into the water. She looked just like a tightrope walker as she teetered over those boulders. And when she finally planted herself into the frigid waters, you could hear her shriek from at least ten miles away. That sure was a quick cool dip.
Apart from the scenery along the trail, there are several other heart-stopping moments you will experience all related to — the dreaded potholes! Potholes are the bane for any explorer. They seem to appear out of nowhere, especially when driving down a steep portion of the trail with little room to manouver. You just see it, and brace. Then Bernadette screams, “Watch out for the pothole!” And then “BAM!” The sudden thump of hitting a pothole sure gets the old ticker going.
After about three hours on our tour, we came across the Rusty Anchor Restaurant in Pleasant Bay where the sign read, “Best lobster roll on the Cabot Trail.” My kind of place. And what a view. I was in an otherworldly place as I sat there embracing the ocean breezes atop spectacular cliffs, lobster roll in hand. And the lobster roll sure lived up to its reputation.
A few miles down the road we came across Cheticamp, a picturesque Acadian fishing village situated between the majestic highlands of Cape Breton and the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. There we visited the Aucoin Bakery which has been in business since 1959 and is still a family run bakery.
It is hard to describe the assorted breads and rolls, homemade pastries, sandwiches and Acadian meat style meat pies. But what is easy, is to highly recommend that you make sure to stop at Aucoin Bakery anytime you are in Cheticamp.
Perhaps the highlight of our exploration of the Cabot Trail came the next day when Bernadette and I ventured off to hike the famous Skyline Trail. This seven kilometer (4.5 miles) loop trail is well known for its scenic views, but the most spectacular are at the trail’s end when a beautifully manicured boardwalk leads you to some amazing vantage points.
This is a photographer’s dream spot that you will often see in magazines. We were in awe of the deep blue panoramic ocean before us. To the left is the spectacular serpentine-like Cabot Trail hugging the cliffs weaving itself along the coast. “It doesn’t get better than this,” I said to my gal. And just at that moment, a pod of whales appeared in the waters below doing a dance for us. A picture perfect ending to a picture perfect day.